"Perfume is the perfect expression of metamorphosis; transforming exotic raw materials into captivating fragrances, it can remove you from the ordinary and transport you to the extraordinary. It is the ultimate personal luxury; perfume is sensual, beguiling, glamorous and expressive. It has the ability to retrieve deep memories, stir the soul and yet still remain an intrinsic part of our very selves.
When Papillon was founded in 2011 it was our aim to create perfumes that are evocative and unique, using only the finest materials within the industry. Our compositions are produced using the classical methods, blended in small batches and are completely handcrafted. As a small artisanal company we are able to use rare and costly ingredients within all of our creations and have sourced these high grade absolutes and oils from every corner of the globe.
Exquisitely composed, all of the perfumes in the collection are eau de parfum strength using a very high concentration of the pure extrait.
All of our perfumes are androgynous as we believe there to be no gender boundaries when wearing a perfume."-Papillion Perfumery
Liz Moores of Papillion Perfumery
Papillon aim to continue the beauty and tradition of the ancient art of perfume making in the 21st century"- Papillon Perfumery.
Can you tell us of your background?
My background is ever so varied. I think like many creatives, in my early years I bounced around between a few industries. Deep down my passion was always deep rooted in perfume; I was always fascinated with smells (both good and bad!) and harbored an inherent interest in how to create them. My work in aromatherapy further ignited my interest in materials and fragrance, and like all great disasters, from these humble beginnings, I grew.
Did you have a interest in fragrance growing up?
I think unknowingly, fragrance shaped a huge part of my life. I am a firm believer that scent is very powerful in both recalling and creating memories. I recall my deepest memories through scent, and in this way it has shaped me. In my early years it was very much subconscious, but I cannot deny my eternal desire to smell delicious!
- Well, how did your current journey into perfume begin?
I think more than anything it was intrigue that lead me into perfumery; I would wear my favorite perfumes and have a deep desire to know how they were made. Through intense trial and error, I began to realize what it was that “turned me on” in the perfume world, and for want of a better phrase, I just rolled with it! I am always learning, and that is very important to me.
- Where would you say the fragrance world is in at the moment?
- What are your thoughts for its future?
I see mainstream perfume very much following what the indie perfumers are doing right now but with heftier price tags, while small independents will continue to create the fragrances that they are inspired to create without a marketing brief and often without the cost restrictions. As to my thoughts for the future of the fragrance world I think we will see a resurgence of lost, vintage perfumes being reformulated but with IFRA and EU regulations lurking in the wings the results would be very interesting..... I think that when the world is about to have its next big thing we always go back to the past, recreate with a modern interpretation. There is often comfort in this philosophy.
- Can you explain the concept of your brand and its start?
I have a long and romantic relationship with classic perfumery, but at the same time my perfumes are driven by my own personal experiences and thus take an inevitably modern influence. The butterfly motif manifested itself through my love of nature and its huge influence on me. All of my five children are named after flowers, so I think I can comfortably say I am driven by flowers, materials and nature in a huge way! I can really only say that the brand developed in such a natural way that when I am asked about it, it’s hard to give a linear explanation.
What would you say is your creative process if you can share?
Ideas for a perfume can come to me in many ways. Often it is through the books I’m reading or new materials I am trialing. After I have the initial inspiration I begin creating sketches and mods and I can go through SO many variations. Once I have the mods, my house will be littered with blank bottles scrawled with various numbers. I spray anyone that comes near me with the different versions of the fragrance and wear them myself for weeks at a time, evaluating how they change on me and the people around me. After I have an idea of which one is working the best, I continue working on it until I reach a stage where I take a step back and begin round two of spraying friends/family/myself and the evaluating continues. Some perfumes can take a very long time and others are thrown out completely; I know how long my creative process can seem at times, but I only want to put out perfumes that I know have had the love and attention that the wearer deserves.
Do you have any advice for those that may want to become a perfumer or designer?
My advice I always give is to be brave. It’s important to stay true to your vision but also to know when something just isn’t working and needs to be left behind. Get plenty of honest feedback from everyone around you, trust your instincts, and combine these two to give yourself the best chance of creating something you can be proud of. Everyone makes mistakes; in the early days basic things like ordering materials in small volumes seemed like a huge mountain to climb, but it’s been truly amazing to see how many people are so willing to help within the industry.
Finally do you have any other words that you would like to share?
This is a great question because it gives me the opportunity to thank everyone who has championed and supported Papillon. Without these great people; friends, bloggers, stockists and customers alike Papillon could never have succeeded.